RETURN TO ARCHIVE INDEX

French Wine Explorers Wine e-Newsletter
www.wine-tours-france.com - November/December 2006

This month's wine explorations:

Bonjour from Avignon,

Jean-Pierre and I are spending the holidays in the historic walled city of Avignon, the capitol of the Cotes du Rhone.  From our apartment, we can see the majestic Pope's Palace looming in the distance, and the 14th century ramparts that encircle the city are just outside of our windows.  In the town square, there are Christmas markets with displays of the colorful santons (hand-made figurines), pottery and other well-known Provençal products.  Just a few miles away lie some of the most famous vineyards in France, including Chateauneuf-du-Pape (just a 15 minute drive from here).  This is a peaceful time of year in the vineyards.  The harvest is over, the taille (pruning) has not yet begun, and the mostly leafless vines have a stark beauty.  Soon, the local restaurants will be serving flavorful dishes using the  truffles that grow so abundantly here.  It all reminds me that every season in the French wine regions has its beauty and charm, and wonders to discover and savor.

As the holidays approach, we look back on 2006, a year that's been particularly gratifying for us.  This year, Food & Wine Magazine voted us one of the "World's Great Wine Tours", American Express published our Best Champagne Picks, and The Washington Post asked me to share my expertise in a story on wine touring in Burgundy.  But the most heartwarming praise has come from our clients, who more than ever tell us our tours are incredibly memorable, totally fun, and packed with so many great luxury services that they are a good value for the price.  A number of past clients came back to tour with us again this year, and we've enjoyed staying in touch with so many of you that we feel we now have wine loving friends all over the world, from California to China, from New York to Australia.  Please accept our heartfelt thank you for your confidence in us, and for making French Wine Explorers America's top French wine tour company.

Keep reading for more about Avignon and the Southern Rhône, some great wine and food pairings for the holidays, and special early booking savings for 2007 tours to thank you all for your ongoing support and encourage you to come see us this coming year in France!

A bientot (see you soon),

Lauriann Greene-Sollin, Sommelier-Conseil
President/Founder

Festive French Holiday Food & Wines

Every French holiday has a food associated with it, and New Year's Eve is no exception.  In fact, New Year's Eve has two traditional foods: foie gras (fatted duck liver, pictured at right) and oysters.  Every supermarket and specialty store is packed with every type of foie gras at this time of year, and fresh oysters are available at fish markets and stands outside local brasseries.  Although we may consider foie gras a luxury item, it's so traditional that in France, even people of modest means consume it at this time of year.  The oysters usually come from Brittany, or Arcachon on the Atlantic Coast near Bordeaux.  Both call for special wines that match the complex flavors of these festive foods.  Here are some suggestions if you decide to make these French holiday foods part of your New Year's Eve feast.

Of course, the classic match with foie gras is a sweet wine, vin liquoreux in French.  The unctuous quality of the wine matches the creaminess of the foie gras, and the sweetness counteracts the slight bitterness inherent in the liver.  It's important to choose a sweet wine of very fine quality; foie gras has complex aromas, and you'll need a wine that is complex enough itself to complement those aromas.  For duck foie gras, a fine Sauternes is the classic choice: it's opulently sweet with a very high level of acidity to balance the sweetness so it doesn't become cloying, and the best ones have all the complexity you could desire.  Any of the First Growths will be just fine: we particularly like Chateau Suduiraut, and their second wine, Castelnaud de Suduiraut, is a very fine wine at a great value.  The better the quality of the foie gras you choose, the better the quality of the wine you should choose.  French goose foie gras usually comes from Alsace, and the sweet wines of Alsace are a perfect match for them.  Try a Late Harvest Riesling or Gewurtztraminer, or the harder-to-find but often more complex S.G.N. in the same varietals (Sélection Grains Nobles, a wine made with grapes that have been attacked by the Noble Rot).  If you don't like sweet wines, you have other good options: a very fruity, slightly off-dry wine, like a non-Late Harvest Alsace Gewurtztraminer (Trimbach makes a good one) or a Vouvray from the Loire Valley (Domaine Huet is always a good choice) can also work well, as can a full-bodied Pessac-Léognan blanc (like the great one from Chateau Smith Haut Laffite) or a particularly round Condrieu from the Rhône Valley, made from 100% Viognier grapes (we love the one that Yves Cuilleron makes).

With oysters, we're at the very opposite end of the taste spectrum - I think the French enjoy the contrast of eating them in the same meal as foie gras.  Eating an oyster is like tasting the ocean breezes themselves: crisp, clean, salty, and slightly fishy.  Oysters have a very delicate taste, with subtle but marked differences in taste depending on the origin of the oyster.  You need a wine that will not overpower the oyster, with the same crisp, clean taste that comes from great minerality and a bracing level of acidity.  In Brittany, Muscadet is the wine most often chosen to go with oysters.  Choose a Muscadet "sur lies" (aged on the lees) from only the very best producers: try Domaine les Hautes de Noelles "Les Granges" (the 2005's were particularly good).  Other fine choices known for their minerality and acidity include Chablis from the northernmost part of Burgundy, like those from Domaine Raveneau, or Sancerre with its fine flinty character (Domaine Mellot makes the best).

Surprised I haven't mentioned Champagne yet?  After all, it's not New Year's Eve without Champagne.  I saved it for last, because Champagne has the uncanny ability to go with BOTH foie gras and oysters.  A pinot noir-based Champagne that is rich and round (think Roederer Brut Premier) will refresh your palate while also providing a good complement to the richness of the foie gras; even a rosé Champagne like the great one from Billecart Salmon could be an interesting choice.  And with oysters, a Blanc de Blanc (100% Chardonnay) with great minerality, like the amazing Krug Clos de Mesnil, is just about as close to a perfect wine and food match as you can get.

Want to learn more about wine and food matching?  Join our wine expert hosts on an unforgettable wine tour.  See our web site and download a printable 2007 schedule.

Tour News:  Special Early Booking Savings

We all know that the early bird catches the worm.  Early wine tour bookers not only guarantee their place on our popular tours - they also benefit from great early-booking savings!  Discover the beauty, history and romance of the French wine regions in 2007 on one of these great wine and food adventures in France:

$250 SAVINGS PER PERSON on any of the following tours:

September 3-8, 2007:  Great Estates of Bordeaux
September 10-14, 2007:  Great Estates of Burgundy
December 13-17, 2007:  Alsace Christmas Markets    

That's a savings of $500 per couple - c'est merveilleux!   This special offer is good only until January 15th, so be sure to contact us today for itineraries and full information.

We've been getting lots of emails and calls about the ever-popular Bordeaux Prestige and Burgundy & Champagne Prestige tours.  They're already filling up, so do be sure to sign up soon before we sell out.  Here are the dates:

May 21-26, 2007:  Bordeaux Prestige I
May 28-June 2, 2007:  Burgundy & Champagne Prestige
June 4-9, 2007:  Bordeaux Prestige II

Of course, private touring is also possible in any of the French wine regions, or in the finest wine regions of Italy, Spain and Portugal.  Private tours can be customized as you wish, and can include hotels and chateaux from comfortable and charming 3-star to the most luxurious 5-star, gastronomic dining, cooking classes, special wine tastings and wine classes, hot-air balloon or helicopter excursions, cultural sightseeing, and, as always, the very best, most prestigious wineries, large and small, famous and soon-to-be-famous.  Jean-Pierre and I will be in Avignon next summer, and we'd like to extend a special invitation to come and tour with us in this region we know and love so well.  Special in-depth tours are also available for wine tasting clubs, and for wine and food professionals.

See our web site and download a printable 2007 schedule, contact us by email or telephone us  at 1-877-261-1500 (toll free U.S. and Canada) for full itineraries, details and reservation forms.  Join us for an unforgettable wine tour in 2007! 

Avignon, Capital of the Cotes du Rhone

If it weren't for the Catholic Church, France's vineyards may never have produced anything greater than the most ordinary table wine.  Their influence was felt in every vineyard in France, as they identified terroirs, planted and greatly enlarged vineyards, and developed winemaking techniques still used today.  The Church left a particularly impressive legacy in the Southern Rhone Valley and its capital, the beautiful, small city of Avignon.  It was here that the Pope himself left his mark!

At the beginning of the 13th century, Rome was torn by violence and insecurity.  When Betrand de Got, the archbishop of Bordeaux, was named Pope Clément V, the decision was made to move the Papal court to Avignon.  The city and the region around it were the property of the Kings of Naples, loyal subjects of the Papacy. The area had been free from strife for many years, and the new Pope found there the peaceful surroundings he had been looking for.  Originally meant to be a temporary move, the Pope nonetheless built a spectacular fortress-like palace in Avignon, and the Papal court remained in the area for the rest of the 14th century.  They also built a somewhat smaller summer palace just 20 km away in an area that became known as the New Chateau of the Popes (Chateuneuf-du-Pape) - a little place to "get away from it all."

The arrival of the Pope heralded a new era in the vineyards of the region.  The Pope wasn't going to drink just any wine, and he needed a lot of it for his banquets and when entertaining visiting dignitaries.  And of course, they needed more wine than ever for the sacramental mass.  Massive planting was undertaken, and the size of the vineyards increased dramatically, as did the quality of the wines being produced.  Those who visited the Papal court and drank the local wines brought them back to their countries, and the fame of these wines grew steadily.  The location of Avignon on the Rhone River made it a perfect spot for commerce, as the river made shipping and trade with other parts of Europe possible.  The Rhone Valley was well on its way to becoming one of France's most famous vineyards.  Avignon belonged to the Papacy until 1791, when it was made part of France in the aftermath of the French Revolution.

Arriving by train in Avignon, the Pope's Palace stands in the distance like a huge golden fortress in the Provence sun - an impressive site that is only equaled when one is standing in its shadow, looking up at the great turrets and huge stone walls.  The city retains its unbroken circle of 14th century ramparts, one of the finest examples of medieval fortification still in existence. They encircle what is now referred to as "IntraMurros" (the city within the walls);  only 11,000 people live IntraMurros, giving it an atmosphere of a small village within the bigger city of Avignon.  You can walk from one end to the other in about 15 minutes, through narrow, winding cobblestone streets, passing 17th and 18th century mansions with luxurious private gardens just visible beyond their high walls.

If you love food, Avignon is a destination you won't want to miss.  The tiny historic center counts no fewer than four Michelin-starred restaurants.  The wonderful central covered market (Les Halles) is a great place to sample local Provençal delicacies as you pass from the cheese stand to the charcuterie seller and admire the beautiful locally-grown produce.  With Avignon as your base of operations, you can easily visit all of the best vineyards of the Southern Rhone, including Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Vaqueyras, Cotes du Rhone Villages, Cotes de Ventoux or Cotes de Luberon.  Roman ruins abound in the area, including the largest Roman aqueduct still in existence, the Pont du Gard.  And no trip to Avignon is complete without seeing the "Pont d'Avignon " (on y danse, on y danse . . .).  Its real name is the Pont Saint Benezet, the famous bridge that has spanned only half the Rhone River since the 16th century, when it was mostly washed away by flood waters.

I guess you can tell that I love Avignon.  I think you'll fall in love with Avignon, too, as you visit this fascinating city and the wonderful vineyards of the Southern Rhone.  We'd love to help you discover the very best of Provence and the Southern Rhone in 2007 - see our Rhone web page, or contact us for more information about private and customized tours in the region.  P.S.  Our very cute, furnished IntraMurros apartment is available for vacation rental starting in late 2007 - ask us for more details!

Visiting the French Wine Regions: Do It Yourself, or Take a Wine Tour?

You're thinking about visiting Bordeaux or Burgundy, and you're not sure whether to do it on your own or to take a scheduled or private tour with a wine tour company.  You've been pouring over the Internet and wine magazines for helpful information.  Visiting the wine regions has become a popular vacation choice, and there's now a HUGE amount of information out there on the subject.  Much of what you'll find is informative and helpful, but a lot of what's written about the realities of planning a wine tasting vacation in the French wine country is misleading and just plain inaccurate.  So how do you decide how to proceed?

First, let's be clear that anyone can visit the French wine regions on their own.  All you have to do is rent a car, book a hotel, search the Internet for abundant information on wineries and wine routes, buy a map, and you're all set.  People visit France all the time on their own, and have perfectly lovely vacations.  A wine tasting vacation presents special challenges to the independent traveler that are best to take into account when planning your trip.  When making plans for your long-awaited vacation, you should be aware of these realities:

No one answers when you knock at Chateau Latour's door:  most of the top French estates are not yet open to the public or have tasting rooms where you can just stop by and enjoy a pour, even if you pay for it.  I saw an article recently saying that anyone can now call First Growth Chateaux Latour and Lafite-Rothschild for a tour and tasting - this is just not true, and with the latest vintage selling for over $750 a bottle in futures, it's mighty unlikely they'll be pouring tastes for the general public anytime soon.  All of our groups tasted the fabulous 2005 vintage at Chateau Latour this past year (as well as their 2nd and 3rd wines, and an older vintage of the Grand Vin).  The highest level of the French wine business works by connections, and tastings at the top estates are mostly restricted to wine professionals.  Yes, there are some you can visit on your own.  But you will have a much warmer welcome and a more extensive tasting (often with the cellarmaster or chateau owner) when you travel with a qualified wine tour company.

Parlez-vous français?  In places like Burgundy and the Rhône Valley, it is more the exception than the rule to find someone who speaks English at the other end of the phone when you make an appointment for a tasting (and you DO have to make an appointment - if you don't have to, likely the winery isn't worth visiting).  You may be able to have a taste at the caveau (tasting room), when there is one (there are very few), but meeting with the winemaker is going to be difficult when his English is non-existant.

The restaurant doesn't live up to the review:  Yes, you can find reviews on the Internet about hotels, wineries, sightseeing and restaurants.  And you can assemble them into your own itinerary, once you've spent the hours and hours it takes to fully research your trip.  Only to find that the restaurant you picked for lunch is nowhere near the winery you choose to visit afterward, and the food wasn't really that great to begin with.  And the winery was totally unmarked, so you lost a half hour searching for it and missed your appointment.  This is a big reason people choose to work with a great wine tour company that has the experience and expertise to create itineraries that minimize driving time and include only the best, most authentic hotels and restaurants.  And knows how to find the most well-hidden wineries.

The Burgundy Appellation System:  I don't mean to pick on Burgundy, but ask any wine lover, and they'll tell you that the appellation system there is REALLY hard to understand (a lot of professional sommeliers don't understand it, either).  But our local hosts there do, and by the end of your time in Burgundy with us, you will, too.  Your host will also help you understand the history of the region, learn about the local food specialties and customs, and show you the one wine store out of twenty in town that has the best selection and prices.  And be there to help with any and all concerns or problems that may come up during your trip.

I swear, I was just TASTING, Officer!  France has some of the most strict drinking and driving laws in the world, and they are enforced, even with foreigners.  Wouldn't you prefer to be able to enjoy your wine at tastings and at meals without worrying about getting stopped by the gendarmes afterward?

OK, I know that I'm not exactly impartial on this subject - of course, I want you to come and take one of our wine tours.  I just want you to know that there are real reasons that many people choose to take tours, scheduled or private, rather than going on their own.  If I didn't think there was a real added value in taking a wine tour, I wouldn't be in this business.  Yes, I know you're not the type to take a bus tour (although our buses are pretty darn luxurious) and to travel with strangers (did I mention the camaraderie and fun of meeting like-minded wine lovers and making new friends?).  No problem - take a private tour instead.  Yes, it can cost more to take a wine tour than to go on your own.  You're paying for having a guide all to yourself, and our years of experience, high-level wine expertise, insider contacts, and the considerable amount of time that goes into creating, planning and executing your wine tour.  All of those factors go into making your tour a seamless and memorable experience.  Quality always has a price, but your time does, too.  When one adds up the time spent researching and booking all the aspects of a wine country trip, plus the valuable vacation time that can be wasted getting lost or going to sub-par estates or restaurants, taking a wine tour with a great, specialized wine tour company becomes an attractive value.

Send to a Friend

We hope you enjoyed this newsletter.  Please click on the link at the bottom of this email to forward it to a friend, family member or colleague who loves wine, so they can enjoy it, too! 

Contact Us!

Subscribe to this Wine e-Newsletter here

Contact us for more information about our wine and culinary programs in France:

FRENCH WINE EXPLORERS
info@wine-tours-france.com
www.wine-tours-france.com
Tel:  1-877-261-1500 (toll free, U.S. & Canada)
Fax: 1-253-423-5316

© 2006 French Wine Explorers. Articles © 2006 Lauriann Greene.  All rights reserved.  Fla. Seller of Travel Reg. No. ST36431